Rickshaw heaven and bindis galore

I had bought a lovely green linen blouse with embroidering and shiny things, so I put it on today, and already I am not attracting as much attention than yesterday's pink button-down top. I still get called on and hassled, but that has dropped considerably. But then again, it might be that the shocked look has disappered from my face, I feel a lot more confident navigating the streets now, and I can step around fresh ground spittle like a pro! Oh yeah, everyone empties their throats on the streets and sidewalks, about once every 30 minutes/person, so the path is always glistening. As a germophobe, I try not to think about it. I also bought a month's supply of colorful bindis for like 50 cents (but I think I overpaid), so tomorrow I will be sporting one on my forehead. If I keep pace with this progress, I too will be spitting on the sidewalks and mixing up chutneys by the end of the month.

So my sister, who's been living in India for a while, warned me about those auto rickshaws (or tuk-tuks, depending on where you are), and how they're moving death traps because they are likely to flip. Those things are everywhere, they weave in and out of traffic like eels in a school of fish. Despite the warning, I decide to give it a try.

Rickshaw ride #1: I'm walking to the metro station, determined to go to the National Museum, when this rickshaw driver pulls up beside me and tells me he could take me there for 10 rupees (or about 33 cents for you Yanks). I figure for a 2-3 mile ride, that's pretty decent. So I hop in, then he tells me that we will make one short stop along the way, a government emporium where I can do some shopping. I tell him I don't need to shop, but he says just look for 5 minutes, don't have to buy, then we go directly to the museum. That couldn't hurt, so I reluctantly agree. Besides, these government emporiums usually have products of much higher quality, prices are posted, and there is no hassle/haggling required. As we get closer to the emporium, he reassures me, and asks me to just go in and look for 10 minutes. He gets a cut for taking customers to the emporium I imagine, and is worried that a quick look won't be enough to give him the cut. I say that he only said 5 minutes earlier, then he says, ok 6-10 minutes, and I tell him that I will see. The shop is one of the nicest I've seen in Delhi - clean, and the staff is very helpful, respectful, and not at all pushy. They've got some beautiful fabrics, sculptures, and crafts. I'm tempted to buy a cotton sari, but I don't know how to put one on because it is just a large piece of cloth, and it will probably collect dust back home. But they did have a lot of very beautiful, shiny things.

Rickshaw ride #2: Uneventful. The driver agreed to turn on the meter, take me there for less fare than I thought, and drove safely without detours. I bet the other drivers make fun of him.

Rickshaw ride #3: I'm getting to be a pro at this. It is dark and I've just come out from the Humalayan's Tomb complex, which is far from any metro station. I talk to a driver parked outside the site, he won't turn on the meter and instead asks me if I want to go shopping. He can take me to the emporium and charge me very little for the ride. I tell him I'm not shopping, I just went to the emporium this morning, and I don't want to go back, even if he is willing to give me a very cheap ride. I don't trust this guy and walk on. I find another rickshaw, and the driver says his meter is broken (which is bullocks, I'm sure) but he offers me a fairly reasonable though still a little overpriced ride, and I take it because it is dark and I'm not about to quibble over a few rupees, especially if he isn't taking me shopping.

I read in the guide book not to shake hands with men. I shook three hands yesterday, but today I refrained and said "namaste" instead. I've found that namaste is a great way to decline people politely, it's the magic word for them to back off, and I'm happy for not having to be rude.