Ahoy Praha!

Ahoy Praha!

I feel like Prague is laid out like an E.M. Escher drawing, the more I walk, the more I walk in circles. Then there are moments when I discover the way, and it seems to have been there all along and it was so easy. I am pretty sure that the streets change places in the night, or maybe just the street signs.

No words, photograph, video, or mime can ever capture the essence and quintessential beauty that is part of everydaz Prague. It is the mother of all cities, and it took my breath away. I was trying to find the Jewish Quarter yesterday and stopped to ask an old Czech man who dreams of living in Malibu, visiting Las Vegas, and likes to pick wild mushrooms. He ended up spending the whole day showing me the unmissable sights, including Prague castle perched high on a hill overlooking the old town, climbed 288 steps up the gothic tower of the castle's cathedral to take in a million-dollar view of the city, looked through a secret window into the old Jewish cemetery with rows upon crooked rows of gravestones dating from the 14th century, a favorite bakery with cheerful orange walls that smells heavenly of sweet buttery bread and pastries with little cookies hanging in the large display window like Christmas ornaments. Then he took me on a short hike into Sharka Park just a 20 minute tram ride outside of the center but still within the city of Prague, to show me the rocky mountains and streams and lichen clinging on the trees, and breathe the fresh mountain air. As if that wasn't enough, he showed me his art collection that he has accumulated over all these years, which included numerous pieces from the Prague Castle that were auctioned off when the Communists took over, stamped with the royal coat of arms, and dazzling crystal and beautifully painted porcelains. Afterwards I walked circles around the Old Town Square to find this tasty little vegetarian restaurant and then walked circles again until I found my way home.

Today I hiked Petrin hill near the castle and took in another million-dollar view of the skyline from the hill. I randomly wandered into this church that is famous for a small infant Jesus statue. Apparently, Catholics from all over the world, especially South America, pilgrimage to this church to see and pray for miracles from this little statue. The church also had a museum, which displays some of the elaborate outfits that have been given to the statue over the years, including one from Empress Maria-Theresa, which had a thick velvety outfit embroidered in gold thread. There were outfits from the Chinese Catholics in Shanghai embroidered with birds and Chinese characters, Vietnam, and Columbia. This is certainly the best dressed statue I have ever encountered! Strolled across the famous Charles Bridge, taking in yet another breath-taking view from the river. The whole bridge is pedestrian only, and if there wasn't a river below, you'd think it was a carnival street scene -- packed with tourists, street artists, vendors selling prints of Prague and the bridge, and people snapping pictures left and right. Me, I had a picnic lunch while leisurely strolling the bridge. It's been cold and raining on and off, but the sun finally came out this afternoon, and I basked in its warm glow as I watched the hordes of tourists walk by, and then from atop one of the bridge's towers I caught another unbelieveable view of the city and the bridge. The bridge was built by King Charles, and it was a BIG deal to have a bridge built back then, and he had dedicated it to a saint. I learned more stuff about the bridge, but I cannot recollect anymore.

As for me, I'm certainly getting my steps in, no question about it! Europe has been a joy on foot, and I've regularly logged 20,000 steps, or roughly 7 to 8 miles, more in a walking city like Prague, less in a city like Berlin where I took the subway more because the city is so expansive. The weather - cold and wet. Fortunately, I'm decked out in my warmest ski wear, although I'm thinking of ditching my hat with the pom because I think I may be drawing attention to myself for being an American. But I love the pom, it's the reason I bought the hat. I do wish I had brought mittens, I prefer them to gloves. Europeans, especially those my age, do not wear mittens. Pity.